There’s a moment, just before the microlight lifts off, when I start seriously questioning my life choices. I’m strapped into what is essentially a flying garden chair, buzzing – seemingly spluttering – down a small runway in Livingstone, Zambia. Even after we’re airborne and, miraculously, we haven’t plummeted straight back to ground, the man in front of me – the pilot – spends most of his time gesturing at buffalo and hippos, meaning his hands aren’t doing much steering. Below me rages one of the most powerful natural wonders on the planet. It’s Mosi-oa-Tunya – “The Smoke That Thunders”. Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls straddles the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. It’s not in itself the highest or the widest waterfall, but all things considered, it is the largest sheet of falling water on the planet. It’s twice as high and nearly twice as deep as Niagara Falls, and gets its Lozi name from the immense spray – the smoke – and the roaring sound of the water – the thunder, as it plunges into the gorge. Victoria Falls travel experience
For the full experience, you need to visit both sides of the Falls – Zimbabwe, from where 75% of the Falls can be seen, and Zambia, from where you can best feel the sheer power of the Falls. I’m particularly excited for the Zambian side; it’ll be my first time setting foot in the country since I was born there over thirty years ago, and it’s somewhat of a homecoming. Victoria Falls travel experience
I arrive at the Zimbabwean entrance to the Falls just after sunrise. Situated within a rainforest – the only place on the planet where it rains every single day of the year – the walk is pristine, lush and cool, with the rising sun serenely backlighting the constant mist from the Falls, which rage on the other side of the understory.
The trail is beautifully maintained, and as I arrive at the main viewing point, the full curtain of water crashes down on the other side of a gorge before me. There are no fences, no tour groups, no people; for nearly an hour, I have perhaps the most dramatic of the world’s natural wonders to myself, but of course it’s anything but quiet.
Later that morning, I cross into Zambia on foot, over the Victoria Falls Bridge. The border formalities are casual, but almost as soon as I step across the threshold, I’m struck by the disarming hospitality of Zambians – from police officers, to taxi drivers, to hotel and bar staff – everyone I encounter is endlessly kind, genuinely helpful, and quietly proud.
That afternoon, I hop on a gentle, luxurious sunset cruise along the Zambezi, then spend the evening sipping cocktails at The Royal Livingstone Hotel – a hotel where the guest list includes not just humans but also zebra, giraffe and deer, who roam freely across the manicured lawns and loiter about the pool like so many detached influencers.
Early the next morning, I set off for Devil’s Pool, the world’s most extreme infinity pool – a natural rock pool at the very edge of the Falls, separated from the gaping abyss below by only a narrow lip of stone. Much of the thrill of Devil’s Pool is also in the journey to get there: a small boat across the Zambezi river to the famous Livingstone Island, a careful scramble over slippery rocks, and then a swim across the surging water just metres from the edge of the Falls. Victoria Falls travel experience
Having booked the Devil’s Pool tour from the safety and comfort of a warm bed in Sydney, I’m struck by the apparent stupidity of my decision when, grappling at the edge of the pool, I’m being loudly encouraged to let my body hang over the edge for a photo while a guide holds on to my feet, his hands slipping constantly under the flowing water.
It wasn’t the last time I questioned my life choices on that day; it was that afternoon when I took the microlight flight over the Falls just before sunset. But seeing the Falls from the air is the only way to truly appreciate its scale and beauty, with the added bonus of seeing herds of wild animals from above. We’re particularly lucky to briefly follow the rare sight of a mother rhino and her baby calf. Victoria Falls travel experience
It’s a fitting, idyllic sight to end a magical few days in the Victoria Falls region.
TRAVEL NOTEBOOK
Best time to go Peak flow of the Falls is between February and May, but this means a lot of spray; travel between October to December for the clearest views (and the chance to visit Devil’s Pool).
Getting there Fly from any major Australian airport into Johannesburg, then fly straight to Victoria Falls Airport, in Zimbabwe. There are no ride-sharing services, but the local taxi services are reliable and safe to get around.
Where to stay There’s plenty of accommodation options on both sides of the border, so you can’t really go wrong. The region is incredibly safe and well-accustomed to tourists.
The dollars and cents I paid around $2,000 for 4 days in the region – that covered my accommodation, food and drink, and plenty of activities. For an extra thrill, visit Big 5 Mukuni Safari and do the famous lion walk.
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