“Do you know this Indian man?” asked tour guide Peter in Luxembourg City while drawing my attention to a large wayside hoarding displaying a photo of steel king Lakshmi Mittal.
“He has made our country the richest nation in the world,” he said.
Peter was not wrong.
Not many know that Luxembourg, one of Europe’s lesser-known destinations, is currently the planet’s richest country. Lakshmi Mittal who originated from India’s bustling city Kolkata now lives in Luxembourg and owns ArcelorMittal, the world’s second-largest steelmaking company, which significantly contributes to the wealth of the small country. As a Kolkata lad myself, Peter’s words stirred both nostalgia and pride – for the country of my birth, whose sons and daughters, like Mittal, are leaving their mark on the global economy.
Luxembourg rarely makes the tourist radar, but a Belgian friend’s praise – “a hidden gem of history, architecture, and nature” – convinced me otherwise. When I travelled to Europe this year, I happily added it to my itinerary.
Snuggled between Belgium, France, and Germany in northwestern Europe, every part of this small country is steeped in history. It began its journey as a county within the Holy Roman Empire, later evolving into the County of Luxembourg in the 11th century, and eventually becoming a duchy and a principality. The territory was governed by various European dynasties, including the Habsburgs, Bourbons, Burgundians and Prussians, until it achieved independence in 1867. The rich tapestry of their legacies makes Luxembourg a paradise for lovers of history and culture.
Fast forward several centuries, Luxembourg now exists as the world’s only Grand Duchy, where history mingles with modernity. Post World War II, it has achieved notable milestones, including being a founding member of the European Union (EU) and the North Atlantic Treaty Organisation (NATO), hosting the signing of the groundbreaking Schengen Agreements that facilitate visa-free travel among EU nations, and winning the Eurovision Song Contest twice. As stated earlier, it’s currently the world’s richest country, thanks to its thriving steel manufacturing and banking sectors, and it is the only nation in the world that provides free public transportation to both residents and visitors.
Luxembourg City is the nation’s capital as well as the capital of the EU and the entry point for travelers arriving by air, though rail and road connections are available from neighbouring countries to reach the capital conveniently.
History became my companion as I joined Peter into the UNESCO World Heritage-designated Old Town, located at the confluence of the Alzette and Pétrusse Rivers, and based around two squares – Place Guillaume II, dominated by the equestrian statue of Duke William II from the 19th century, who established the nation’s first parliamentary constitution, and Place d’Armes, often referred to as the ‘City’s Living Room.’ Both the areas are filled with numerous historical buildings and monuments, the most distinguished being the Grand Ducal Palace, the official residence of the royal family; the Hotel de Ville, or the City Hall, and the Notre-Dame de Luxembourg Cathedral.
Luxembourg City is constructed on two levels, and the finest view of the lower town can be enjoyed from the Corniche, a picturesque promenade described by Luxembourg writer Batty Weber as the ‘most beautiful balcony of Europe.’ This pedestrian walkway, which hugs the edge of a cliff, meanders along the remnants of the 17th-century city ramparts and provides breathtaking views of the fortification leftovers, bridges, and viaducts that connect the older part of the city to the newer areas and the enchanting suburb of Grund.
In stark contrast to the medieval quarters, the Kirchberg Plateau welcomes visitors with an ultramodern cityscape – sleek high-rises, chic cafés, and contemporary restaurants lining wide boulevards that have replaced cobblestone lanes, Gothic façades, and old-world taverns.
This district was developed to serve as the hub of the EU, and many of the buildings there accommodate key EU institutions, such as the European Court of Justice and the European Investment Bank.
While exploring this area, I noticed people from various nations, their presence contributing to Luxembourg’s status as a leading multicultural destination. An Indian gentleman at a café informed me that residents from 160 different nationalities live in Luxembourg for EU and other related employment.
In the 19th century, Luxembourg drew a host of artistic luminaries, including Ernest Hemingway, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, and Victor Hugo – each inspired, in their own way, by its charm and character.
In 1871, when Hugo was ousted from Belgium for offering political asylum to members of the Paris Commune, he was unable to return to France due to his opposition to Napoleon III. So he took refuge in Luxembourg at a picturesque town called Vianden and lived there for several months. The highlight of this small hamlet is a hilltop 11th-century castle, said to be Europe’s oldest and most beautiful. Falling deeply in love with the place, Hugo wrote, “Nestled in a breathtaking landscape, Vianden will eventually attract tourists from all over Europe, drawn by both its ominous yet splendid ruins and its joyful and friendly inhabitants.” He was indeed correct. Over time, Vianden has become one of the primary tourist attractions in the Grand Duchy.
I signed up for a tour called Nature and Castles. It took us through the stunning Müllerthal Region, known for its rugged hills and the ruins of the 11th-century Beaumont Castle. We also stopped at the postcard-perfect village of Vianden – and yes, its grand stone castle is every bit the star attraction.
The house where Hugo once lived still stands, now preserved as a museum – its front yard graced by a bust of the writer, sculpted by Auguste Rodin.
TRAVEL NOTEBOOK – Luxembourg
Getting There: Fly Qantas (www.qantas.com) via London to Luxembourg City
Stay: Moxy Hotel Luxembourg Airport (www.marriott.com)
Tours: Nature & Castles Tour (www.sightseeing.lu)
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