Helly Raichura The Foods of Bharat
As her plane touched down after a work trip, Melbourne restaurateur Helly Raichura switched on her phone – and nearly jumped out of her seat.
In her inbox was a complete surprise: a personal note from the Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi.
In the letter, carrying the official seal of the Prime Minister’s Office, Mr Modi congratulated Helly on her new book The Food of Bharat, published last year.
“Gratitude for sending a copy of your book,” the prime minister wrote. “The interest you have taken in tracing and documenting the diverse culinary traditions and tastes of Bharat is laudable.”
He added, “Since you are part of our diaspora abroad, such a book also helps inform people from other nations and cultures about Bharat’s wonderful food cultures.”
He signed off, true to form, in Hindi.
“I’m still pinching myself,” Helly told Indian Link days later.
It’s not often you get a note from the Indian prime minister, and this is one Helly will treasure.
The first people Helly shared the news with were her husband Vishal and her parents.
“Of course my parents in their excitement have now shared it with everyone they knew, and I’ve been receiving texts and phone calls from people I haven’t seen in years!”
What inspired her to send a copy of the book to Modiji?
“When I finished the book,” Helly recounted, “I made a list of people I’d like to send a copy to. I had on it, other chefs I’ve admired like Asma Khan, Kylie Kwong, Gary Mehigan; food personalities like Nigella Lawson and Padma Lakshmi; chef friends in Australia like Ajoy Joshi of Sydney, and friend and absolute powerhouse of a woman Sanjana Ganesan – people I thought would like and appreciate my effort, and people who I know enjoy food.”
Narendra Modi was on the list too.
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“Not only because he is prime minister”, Helly explained, “but also because he’s a fellow Gujarati, and that too one who comes from the same part of the state as my mum – Maninagar.”
Her mum, incidentally, is a Modi herself, although not a relation.
Helly is still working through the list and sending out copies of the book. Sanjana Ganeshan and her cricketer husband Jasprit Bumrah claimed their copy when they visited Helly at her restaurant, the highly claimed Enter Via Laundry. Nigella has received her copy and has already written to Helly to share her favourite recipe from the book.
For some time now, Helly has also had a wish list of people she would love to cook for. And yup, Narendra Modi is on it.
“Yes he definitely is, but most people on that list are people I admire for raising the profile of India and of Indians outside of it. Like sports presenters and other professionals. Even comedians like Hassan Minhaj and Nimesh Patel who are changing the perceptions about our country of origin. I have high regard for them all, I want to spend time with them and learn from them.”
She sees her own work with the same lens.
“My own work is not just cooking, but bringing to the fore aspects about India, and increasing awareness and understanding about India. And that’s why my favourite sentence from Modiji’s letter is the bit about sharing ‘Bharat’s wonderful food cultures’.”
She’s clearly still on cloud nine about ‘the letter’.
“Yes, I’m still digesting it all,” she laughed. “Still wondering how this even happened… I want to savour it for a little while longer!”
What would she cook for Modiji if she got an opportunity?
“Khandvi, a Gujarati dish I became known for here!” she replied after taking a moment to think. “And then, paperbark undhiyu with Davidson plums. And perhaps a malpua with rye berries and lemon myrtle. I’d love to show him an Australian take on something typically Gujarati!”
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(For Nigella, the menu is already planned: a kangaroo pasanda, followed by the Kerala duck curry from the book which she liked, this time with Great Ocean Road duck to proudly spruik Australian ingredients yet again.)
Meanwhile, Helly continues the passion Modiji picked up on – lifting the profile of India here in Australia.
His letter reached her as she was returning from South Australia, where she had been working with the Maggie Beer Foundation to bring more diverse flavours to aged care menus. Amidst chefs of Polish, Malaysian, Chinese and Turkish backgrounds, she helped create the Indian menus for South Asian origin aged care patrons.
Alongside, her love of Australia and its cuisine is finding new expression. For Naidoc Week, she has sought out an upcoming First Nations chef to create a fusion meal with.
“It’ll be a wonderful opportunity to learn, have fun, and share our resources.”
Interestingly, that program coincides with Modiji’s proposed Melbourne visit in early July.
Read more: Her Kitchen Rules: Helly Raichura’s unique veg-spread impresses hundreds
