India was once the heart of the ancient world, claims Scottish historian William Dalrymple in The Golden Road, his sweeping tribute to the subcontinent’s long-forgotten global influence.
Dalrymple writes that India’s immense cultural and spiritual influence radiated outward well before the birth of Christ, flourishing for over a thousand years – until shifting tides in the 10th century saw the rise of Islamic empires and, later, European dominance.
Scholars have referred to this expansive Indian influence as the “Indosphere”, a cultural and civilisational sphere that originated in the Indian subcontinent and spread across Southeast, East, and Central Asia, as well as parts of the Middle East and Africa.
On a recent journey through Western India, I encountered striking remnants of the ‘Indosphere’ – from the ancient cave temples of Bhaja near Pune, Ajanta and Ellora near Aurangabad, and Elephanta Island off the coast of Mumbai. These sacred spaces echo the aesthetic brilliance of Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain traditions – each rich in symbolism and ingenuity that Dalrymple eloquently explores in his latest work.
Except Bhaja, the other three are listed by UNESCO as World Heritage sites and well known in the tourism sector.
Ajanta Caves
Located some 100 km from Aurangabad, Ajanta comprises 30 rock-cut caves excavated between the 3rd century BCE and the 6th century CE. Each cave is a treasure trove of extraordinary artworks – paintings and sculptures – that are widely regarded by art connoisseurs as among the greatest artistic achievements of human civilisation. Following the traditions of Buddhist monastic architecture, the caves were designed either as chaityas (prayer halls) or viharas (monastic residences where monks lived, studied, and meditated). Both types were lavishly adorned with intricate murals, carvings, and statues, including monumental depictions of the Buddha in various postures – sitting, standing, and reclining.
Unfortunately, like Cambodia’s Angkor Wat and Indonesia’s Borobudur, the cave temples of Ajanta were abandoned around the 8th century CE, as Buddhism began to decline in India and across parts of Asia. Hidden deep within the forests of the Western Ghats, they remained lost to the world for centuries – until 1819, when a British Army officer, Captain John Smith, stumbled upon them during a hunting expedition.
Under the careful narration of heritage guide Shankar, I reached Cave No. 1, a vihara. I was instantly mesmerised by the sheer volume of artwork within its spacious, pillared hall, dominated by a magnificent carved figure of the Buddha in a seated position. Exploring this ensemble of art was a visual and intellectual feast. With Shankar’s help, I was able to spot the famed images of Bodhisattvas Padmapani and Vajrapani: both, along with the ethereal Flying Apsara in Cave No. 17, are regarded as iconic masterpieces in the global history of art.
The stunning array of Ajanta paintings primarily illustrates the life of the Buddha and recounts fables from the Jataka tales – stories of his previous incarnations. Beyond Buddhist themes, many paintings depict courtly scenes, moments from everyday life, portraits of striking men and women, and graceful, sensuous court dancers known as apsaras.
In one cave, I came across a remarkable painting that featured international figures – Persians, Romans, and Egyptians – distinguishable by their unique attire, hairstyles, and skin tones. Their presence is a vivid reminder that India, even in that era, was far from isolated. It was a cosmopolitan civilisation, connected to the world through the spread of Buddhism and flourishing trade along the legendary Silk Route. (Indosphere)
The caves at Ellora
Unlike the caves at Ajanta, which were carved into a sheer rock face, the Ellora caves near Aurangabad are spread along a 2-kilometre-long ridge. Excavated between the 6th and 9th centuries CE, they feature not only Buddhist architecture but also an impressive array of Hindu and Jain temples and monasteries. Most visitors explore both Ajanta and Ellora – not to compare, but to satisfy their artistic curiosity and appreciation for India’s diverse spiritual heritage. (Indosphere)
The Kailasa Temple in Cave No. 16 is the crown jewel of Ellora. Covering twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens, this 8th-century CE Hindu shrine is hailed by architectural scholars as a timeless engineering marvel – remarkable for its scale, intricate design, and technical brilliance. Recognised as the world’s largest monolithic temple, it is richly adorned with sculpted panels that depict scenes from the Indian epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.
From an art aficionado’s perspective, both cave sites command equal admiration. Ajanta is celebrated for its exquisite wall paintings, while Ellora captivates with its monumental sculptures, especially the striking depictions of the Hindu god Shiva and his consort Parvati. One thing is certain though: Ajanta’s natural setting, nestled deep within a horseshoe-shaped gorge, is far more dramatic and evocative than that of Ellora.
Elephanta Caves
A major attraction of Mumbai is Elephanta Island, home to 7th-century rock-cut temples located about an hour by boat from the waterfront near the Gateway of India and the iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. A magnificent shrine to Lord Shiva and a testament to ancient Hindu cave culture, the island features seven caves filled with intricately carved temples, statues, and mythological imagery. This remarkable ensemble stands as a unique testament to a once-flourishing civilisation that has long since disappeared.
Bhaja Caves
I hadn’t heard of the cave architecture in Bhaja village until I came across it in Dalrymple’s most recent book. He notes that this cluster of 22 rock-cut caves, dating back to the 2nd century BCE, represents one of the earliest examples of Buddhist architecture in the world. Unlike the more famous sites, the Bhaja Caves remain relatively unknown. So when I arrived, I had the rare privilege of experiencing their beauty in near solitude. Remarkably, the main shrine has remained almost intact, standing much as it did over two millennia ago.
During my recent travels through India, I was deeply impressed by the country’s progress across nearly every aspect of daily life – from the economy and infrastructure to technology, digitisation, and healthcare. The ripple effects of this growth are being felt globally, leading me to wonder: is the once-lost ‘Indosphere’ now making a powerful return? (Indosphere)
TRAVEL NOTEBOOK
Getting There One option is to fly Qantas (www.qantas.com) via Sydney and Bengaluru to Pune and then by road or rail to Aurangabad and Mumbai.
Stay Sayaji Hotel, Pune (www.sayajihotels.com), Ambassador Ajanta Hotel, Aurangabad (www.ambassador-hotels.com) and Chateau Windsor Hotel, Mumbai (www.chateauwindsor.com).
India Tour Operator Check Eastbound Group (www.eastboundgroup.com) for on-ground assistance.
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