Bombay captivated me the instant my train from Calcutta approached the expansive platforms of the splendid Victoria Terminus Rail Station. The architecture of this British-designed structure held my attention, a fascination that persisted as our black and yellow Fiat taxi maneuvered through the lively city traffic, occasionally overtaking red double-decker buses. We passed by numerous colonial buildings, a fountain at a five-way intersection, and a lush yet dusty area where cricket was being played on several pitches before reaching our lodging, Chateau Windsor guesthouse located in Churchgate.
Upon entering our room on the fifth floor, I rushed to the balcony, to be greeted by the warm sea breeze from the Arabian Sea. Having seen photographs before, I recognised the semi-circular roadway along the coast as Marine Drive, bustling with vehicles, some of which I had never encountered in my hometown Calcutta. Somewhere in my line of sight, there was a cricket match in progress – the cricket enthusiast in me knew immediately this was Brabourne Stadium. While the towering buildings in the distance seemed to call to me, the vibrant sounds from the street below encouraged me to join the crowds visiting the trendy shops and restaurants.
The urban landscape appeared strikingly different and modern compared to Calcutta. It was enough to enchant a teenager, leading to an enduring love for the vibrant city that unfolded before me. This enchantment has never waned.
It was then 1969, and I was a high school student enjoying a vacation with my parents.
Upon completing my education, I began my working life with a German multinational corporation headquartered in Bombay. This role necessitated frequent visits to the city, which further fuelled my love affair with the city.
I quickly became accustomed to the efficient public transportation system, particularly the local trains and buses. I enjoyed shopping at Akbarallys, perhaps India’s oldest department store, which offered a diverse selection of products from clothing to spices. I explored the stylish boutiques along Linking Road in Bandra, attended Bombay soccer league matches at Cooperage Stadium, and encountered famous Indian cricketers savouring their fresh lime sodas at the Cricket Club of India. I also spotted Bollywood stars, including my idol Dev Anand and Sharmila Tagore, at airports and in the lobbies of five-star hotels. My culinary experiences included vada pav from street vendors in Dadar and chicken patties at Jimmy Boy as snacks, sweet tea with Shrewsbury biscuits at Parsi cafes, and Bombay Pilsner beer in charming local pubs. Late-night visits to Rustomji’s ice-cream parlour at Churchgate became a routine, and I marked several restaurants as my favourites, including Flora at Worli Sea Face, Talk of the Town on Marine Drive, Copper Chimney at Worli with its open kitchen, and Delhi Durbar at Colaba, among many others that still linger in memory. I was gradually acclimatising to a lifestyle and comforts that were distinctly different from those in Calcutta, and my affection for Bombay deepened, leading me to contemplate a move there.
However, as the saying goes, man proposes, and God disposes.
In 1984, I moved to Sydney, Australia, where I have since established deep roots. Nevertheless, my affection for Bombay has remained steadfast.
After nearly four decades, I returned to the city to revisit cherished memories.
As expected, several changes greeted me.
I was aware of the name change, therefore, arriving in Mumbai instead of Bombay did not surprise me. However, I was taken aback by the magnificence of the newly established Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport and its remarkable efficiency of operations. Duty-free shopping done, immigration cleared, and luggage retrieved, I found myself in the car park in nearly half an hour – not always possible in Sydney or London.
Since the eighties, the population of Mumbai has increased from four to nearly twenty million, which means massive infrastructure development in every direction. Driving me from the airport to Churchgate via the newly built Sea Link and the Coastal Highway, my driver explained that these road networks have cut down travel time from the airport to South Bombay drastically.
We whizzed past Antilla, businessman Mukesh Amabani’s 27-storey mansion which now dominates the seafront location as a bizarre addition to the landscape.
Motivated by nostalgia, I chose to stay at the same guesthouse of my youth, now transformed into a 65-room hotel of the same name. Upon entering my room, I hurried to the balcony. While the warm breeze from the Arabian Sea was familiar, I noticed that Marine Drive was now congested with an increased number of vehicles. The outlines of the distant skyscrapers appeared hazy due to pollution, and Brabourne Stadium stood empty, as cricket had relocated to the Wankhede. The vibrance of the street below seemed significantly diminished. I was disheartened to see that the area had lost its former charm, with renowned restaurants such as Talk of the Town, Kamling, and Purohit all shuttered, the entrance to the Cricket Club of India in a state of disrepair, and the footpath littered and cracked. Although Rustomji’s ice cream parlour still operated, it appeared worn and uninviting. A local resident remarked, “The lively spirit of Bombay has moved from this part of the city to Bandra Kurla Centre, commonly referred to as BKC.” Regrettably, due to a lack of time, I limited my activities to the confines of South Bombay, which prevented me from exploring that area of the city thoroughly.
The heart of South Bombay is arguably Colaba, characterised by the old houses, trendy shops and street markets, famous eateries like the Leopold Café, and the sea facing Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, which overlooks the Gateway of India. The precinct has always been heavily crowded, no exception to that four decades later. This location serves as the departure point for boats heading to World Heritage listed Elephanta Island, renowned for its seventh-century rock-cut temples. One of the city’s premier attractions, it captivates with its artistic and architectural splendour.
At Colaba and its surrounds, I had the opportunity to dine at Shamiana, one of the oldest and most renowned restaurants within the Taj Hotel. I also enjoyed Irani Chai, chicken patties and Shrewsbury biscuits at Jimmy Boy, a venue that has been offering authentic Parsi cuisine since 1925.
The Taj, I could not help observing, is no longer exclusive to the city’s elite as it once was; it now attracts a significant number of the emerging middle class. This shift reflects the current economic growth in India, which has broadened the middle-class demographic. However, it was disheartening to witness the decline in the prestige of a once-revered establishment. My previous trips to Bombay felt incomplete without indulging in kebabs at the Copper Chimney, which now has multiple outlets across the city. I visited their Kala Ghoda outlet, but I found that neither food nor atmosphere resonated like they had in the past.
As a returning tourist, Mumbai’s numerous attractions fascinated me – the Hanging Gardens in Malabar Hills; Haji Ali Mosque set against the backdrop of the sea; lively Crawford Market, and Victoria Terminus Railway Station, now known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. I also explored Dhobi Ghat (an open-air laundry that has been in operation since colonial times), the Prince of Wales Museum, and a series of colonial-era buildings that create a fairy tale ambiance when illuminated at night. Despite various transformations, I found the city to be just as appealing as it had always been.
My love affair with Mumbai, nee Bombay, continues.
TRAVEL NOTEBOOK
Getting There Fly Qantas (www.qantas.com) and their code share partner Indigo (www.goindigo.in) to reach Mumbai via Bengaluru.
Accommodation Chateau Windsor Hotel at Churchgate (www.chateauwindsor.com)
Mumbai City Tour Eastbound Group (eastboundgroup.com)
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