The Namib is thought to be the oldest desert in the world, at anywhere between 55 to 80 million years old – for contrast, the Sahara has only been dry for around 12,000 years. The Namib spans 2,000 kilometres along the Atlantic coast, covering parts of Angola, Namibia and South Africa. Its most famous attraction is Sossusvlei, a salt and clay pan surrounded by some of the tallest sand dunes on the planet. It’s a photographer’s dream and the main reason I’ve travelled to Namibia, but there’s much more to the country than I’d first anticipated. things to do in Namib desert
I’ve booked a three-day private tour from Windhoek to Sossusvlei, and all too quickly I’m glad I didn’t elect to self-drive. As we set out from the capital and the country peels itself open before us, we suddenly run into flash flooding. It’s a peculiar phenomenon; Namibia is one of the driest countries in the world, but desert soils typically struggle to cope with a heavy bout of rain, so flooding can be quite common.
In a stark reminder of nature’s duality, after passing through the floods we see lightning striking a bush and sparking a fire. We see neighbouring farmers with makeshift firefighting equipment rushing to help; there’s no fire brigade out here.
Our path through the Namibian outback is replete with wildlife. We stop to admire a gigantic sociable weaverbird nest, nature’s version of a high-rise apartment; the nests, which can last up to a century, are communal homes for up to 500 birds. We see springbok, zebra, oryx, wildebeest, kudu (antelope), and warthogs aplenty. The skies too, abound with eagles and vultures.
We arrive in the Namib-Naukluft National Park just in time for sunrise the next day. Watching the seemingly larger African sun peeking over the deep red dunes is an other-worldly sight. We quickly make our way to the base of one of the more prominent dunes, Dune 45. At 170m tall, it’s a steep but short climb, and I’m rewarded with panoramic views of the desert slowly waking up, light rolling over the dunes as would a gentle tide.
From Dune 45, we make our way to Deadvlei, a white clay pan dotted with blackened, long-dead camelthorn trees, synonymous with the Sossusvlei region and one of the most photographed places in sub-Saharan Africa. Some of these trees are estimated to be over 900 years old, preserved not by water, but by its absence. After a short walk across more sweeping dunes, an ethereal contrast lay before me: scorched black trees scattered across bleached white ground, surrounded by ochre dunes and all under a cobalt blue sky. It was a painting, a half-forgotten dream.
Later that day, we stop at Sesriem Canyon, a 30-metre-deep gorge carved over millions of years by the Tsauchab River. It’s one of the few places in the region where water lingers after rains. Baboons watched us from a rocky ledge as we gratefully climbed down into its cool, shadowed belly. \
That evening, as we drove back towards our lodge and roamed through the Namib-Naukluft reserve in the dying daylight, my guide remarked mournfully on changes in the landscape over the years. The arid plans we were driving through were full of lush vegetation just a decade ago, attracting all manner of wildlife; here too, climate change was having its say. things to do in Namib desert
On our return to Windhoek the next day, we drove through the Naukluft Mountains. The landscape shifted again; from the vastness of the desert, we were now in narrower, rockier, greener territory, the occasional baboon troupe darting across the road. At one point, we stopped to watch an injured young zebra pass, limping but wild-eyed and defiant. He wouldn’t survive long, my guide said matter-of-factly. Overhead, lappet-faced vultures circled on thermals. t
As they say throughout the continent, TIA: This is Africa.
Travel Notebook : Namib
Best time to go May to September for dry, clear skies and cooler weather, though January was quieter and not too warm. The desert comes alive at sunrise, so early starts are a must.
Getting there Fly into Windhoek and arrange a guided tour or get a 4×4. Sossusvlei is a 5 – 6 hour drive away but consider going further west to Walvis Bay, where the desert meets the ocean.
Where to stay Lodges near Sesriem offer easy access to the dunes and night skies. Mine had private cabins, a deck for stargazing, and a phenomenal chef.
The dollars and cents A three-day tour of Sossusvlei and the Naukluft mountains only costs around $1,100 for a single traveller, with all meals and accommodation included.
READ MORE: Essentials to pack and tips for staying healthy while travelling
