The wonders of the Kimberley are first revealed as your plane descends into Broome, the arid red earth of the outback contrasted with the turquoise waters of Roebuck Bay, where several humpbacks could be seen. On arrival I explored Broome’s sights, the historic corrugated iron storefronts of Chinatown, and the broad expanse of Cable beach to watch a brilliant orange and red sunset. Next afternoon, I joined Ponant Cruises’ Le Soleal for a ten-night cruise along the Kimberley coastline to experience this vast wilderness, with wildlife, indigenous art, and breathtaking scenery.
Miraculous feats of nature
First stop as we did the Kimberley by cruise, were the Lacepede Islands, a significant breeding habitat for green turtles, and birds including Brown Boobies, Terns, Pelicans, Egrets and Oyster Catchers. The best way to explore is by zodiac for a close encounter with the many thousands of birds, the more inquisitive swooping down to take a closer look at us.
Lying to the east of the Buccaneer archipelago, the ancient landscapes of Collier Bay have been shaped by massive tidal movements. With a tidal range exceeding 14 metres, Collier Bay is one of the most incredible destinations I’ve ever seen. In the centre of the bay is Montgomery Reef, the world’s largest inshore reef system. As we approached the edge of the reef in zodiacs, as though by a force of nature, the black reef suddenly appeared, seemingly thrust upwards from the ocean, with water cascading down on all sides as the tide rapidly receded.
Massive tidal movements were also experienced the next day at the world’s only “Horizontal Falls.” As the tide receded, a raging torrent of water came surging towards us, squeezed from between two narrow sandstone cliffs. Returning later at low tide, the water line on the cliffs showed the height of the tidal fluctuation. An environment that requires interpretation to yield its full value, Sam a geologist and member of the expedition team, explained the rock formations, as we explored in zodiacs.
Ancient indigenous art
Hidden in the many caves of this ancient landscape are examples of two kinds of rock art, Wandjina and Gwion Gwion that are unique to the Kimberley and which can be seen on the cruise. At Freshwater Cove, we were welcomed by the traditional owners, Indigenous guides, who smeared our cheeks with orange ochre, before leading us to a sacred site, a rocky overhang with earth coloured ochre paintings depicting men and native animals in the Wandjina style. After a smoking ceremony we departed with a better understanding of the cultural significance and meaning of this art.
Later on in the cruise, we visited the Bonaparte Archipelago, a rugged maze of islands composed of fractured sandstone providing rock shelters, with numerous examples of rock art. On Jar Island we went on a guided walk to view Gwion Gwion rock art believed to date back 30,000 years, the site also a midden or place where shell fish over the ages were cooked and eaten.
History
Careening Bay was named by Lt. Phillip Parker King while surveying the northern coastline in 1820 after his ship, the Mermaid, underwent repairs. The ship’s name and year were inscribed on a giant boab tree. When I met with Captain Antoine Paquet later in the bridge, he explained that the Kimberley is such a vast wilderness area that it is still largely unchartered, owing much to the navigational skills of our early explorers.
We also visited the site of a plane that crashed during WW2, and the successful rescue mission of all those on-board. Curled beneath the wreckage was a large brown snake.
Teeming with wildlife
One of the most scenic parts of the Kimberley, and indeed the cruise, the Hunter River is lined with sheer sandstone cliffs and extensive mud flats and mangroves, a rich habitat for wildlife. By zodiac we explored several of the river’s tributaries and Porosus Creek, the water the colour of chocolate. Giant Raptors, Brahminy Kites and Black Cockatoos flew overhead, and in amongst the mangroves, were smaller birds including Kingfishers. Ahead of us, a green turtle popped its head up for air, and on the riverbank were mud-covered crocodiles, the waves gently lapping their sides.
The journey on the King George River is breathtaking, the massive escarpment at the mouth of the river rising steeply upwards, the colours and textures of the sandstone changing from red, purple, pink and orange, the surfaces from jagged to smooth to deeply pockmarked. Arriving at Twin Falls, we went up close for a refreshing splash, a spectacular day that also included flying over the Mitchell Falls by helicopter.
After a relaxing day at sea, we arrived at nightfall in Darwin, a vibrant tropical city with historic buildings, museums, fresh produce markets, great outdoor dining and a friendly relaxed lifestyle.
Taking in the vast wilderness landscape of spinifex tufts, eucalypts, wattles and giant boab trees, exploring rivers, pristine reefs and witnessing incredible tidal movements, will provide memories of a lifetime. The enormity and beauty of the Kimberley is truly overwhelming.
Travel Notebook
- A small expedition cruise ship is the perfect way to explore the Kimberley. Ponant, Silversea, APT, Coral Expeditions, True North and Seabourn offer cruises, generally of ten nights’ duration, ex Darwin or Broome, between March and September. March can be windy, and waterfalls dry up by season’s end.
- Le Soleal has 132 elegant suites and staterooms, most with balconies, in beige, off white and chocolate tones. There are two restaurants, bars, a library, sun deck and pool, boutique, gym, steam room, and spa. On-board entertainment is provided and lectures and recaps by the expedition team are informative.
- Your cruise, flights and accommodation should be booked well in advance. Well located hotels include Mantra on the Esplanade in Darwin, and the Mangrove Hotel in Broome.