Away to Anhui

Thomas E. King takes you through the charming town in China that is seeped in natural and man-made wonders.

Since ancient times Mt Huangshan in China’s southern Anhui Province has been called the “No. 1 Mountain under Heaven”.  Noted for twisted pines, grotesque rock formations, a cloud ‘sea’, crystal-clear hot springs and winter snow scenery, these attributes considered “the five sublimes of Huangshan Mountain” have long been creative influences for painters and poets.  These days, the picturesque massif in southern Anhui Province still attracts artists, but it’s also China’s must-see mountain for visitors from around the world. 

During previous visits to China I had seen the first two attractions on the country’s list of prestigious natural scenic spots: the Three Gorges on the Yangtze River and the Guilin Li River Scenic River. Excitement intensified as the kilometres clicked by during the 500 km road journey between Shanghai and Huangshan City, as I would soon see another highly regarded sight. 

I finally arrived in the 1.8 million-strong provincial centre where ample tourism facilities ensure visitor comfort. After a relaxed night I was off the next morning for the hour-long drive to Tangkou, a small town at the foot of the mighty mountain.  Shuttle buses continued on to the Yungu Cable Car Station, where I boarded a sleek glass capsule for the journey up the mountain side. 

Two misconceptions were immediately dispelled upon reaching the top and stepping out onto the mountain: it’s not yellow nor is there a solitary summit.  The name came from an imperial decree in 747 AD when Mount Yi – Black Mountain – was rechristened as Mt Huangshan to honour Huang Di, a legendary Chinese ruler known as the ‘Yellow Emperor’. 

As for being a solitary summit, some 72 named peaks each soar higher than the next.  Lotus Peak is the loftiest at 1864 metres, with Bright Summit Peak and Celestial Capital Peak rounding out the trio. 

Mt Huangshan is actually a mountain range extending over 1200 sq. km and was formed around 100 million years ago when an ancient sea disappeared due to a rise in the land.  The hunk of Mesozoic granite was later shaped and smoothed by glacial action.  Over time, fissures and fractures appeared on exposed surfaces. 

Miraculously, a robust plant found such a harsh place to be an ideal location to thrive.  Huangshan pine is indigenous to the mountain.  Thousands of pines are more than 100 years old with one gnarled veteran I saw having celebrated an estimated 1200 summers! 

While another veteran called Black Tiger Pine is also revered for its age, there is added interest.  Though it’s just 7.5 metres high, its crown spreads out in the clean fresh air to somewhat resemble a tiger.  An odder characteristic is that this particular pine when viewed from certain angles, roughly resembles the Chinese character for ‘tiger’. 

Mt Huangshan is a veritable botanical garden with more than 1450 recorded varieties of plants including endemic pines and Chinese hemlock.  As well, the mountain is home to more than 550 types of mammals including Tibetan Macaques.  I saw plenty of pines but no primates while venturing along some of the 50 km of footpaths that link peaks with canyons.

An estimated 60,000 stone steps have been carved into the mountain with some dizzying pathways and solid staircases believed to be over 1500 years old.  Many scholars of old walked these stones when they came to admire enchanting mountain landscapes, create paintings, compose poems or make pilgrimages to sacred sites. 

Considered one of five holy mountains in China, Buddhism was introduced around 420 AD with 100 temples subsequently built on its pine-padded slopes.  Many of the still remaining structures are of interest to modern day pilgrims and visitors.  In all, there are more than 200 surviving temples, pavilions, pagodas, passageways, stone sculptures and ancient bridges. 

I stopped at one old stone bridge where literally thousands of rusty padlocks had been affixed to its railings.  This practice, I learned, is still observed by newlyweds who pledge their eternal allegiance to each other on this most spiritual mountain.  

Even from a distance, the grandeur of Yellow Mountain is awe inspiring.  Those living within view of the fabled mountain are indeed fortunate, I thought, retracing the cable car journey down a cloud-shrouded slope and proceeding to an ancient hamlet at the foot of range in the Hu?zh?u region of southern Anhui.

Described as “a unique, cow-shaped ancient village”, Hongcun is unlike any other place I have ever seen in China.  During the Song Dynasty (960 – 1279), the ingenious villagers of Hongcun constructed a complex water system to supply clean water for household use, the irrigation of their fields and fire prevention. 

While it’s not readily apparent, the whole village spread over 30 acres is actually more like a water buffalo lying on its side surrounded by green hills and blue water.  Dwelling houses form the body, nearby Leigang Hill is the head while two tall trees are the horns.  South Lake just beyond the cluster of houses is the ‘stomach’, while waterways spread out like ‘intestines’. 

Narrow alleyways crisscross the village and I trod along well-worn flagstones while passing some of the 140 buildings that remain from the 14^th to 19^th centuries.  The distinct architecture typical of Hu?zh?u culture was highly visible.  On the outside, homes have whitewashed walls and black tile roofs many with horse head gables.  On the inside, most homes are furnished with carved wood panels and have cosy interior courtyards.

There are several attention-getters in Hongcun like the circa 1855 Chengzhi Hall, a marvel of China’s ancient architectural arts.  Detailed with refined wood, brick and stone carvings and praised as the “royal palace outside of the Forbidden City” it’s open to visitors unlike most of the other old homes which are still private residences. 

Many home owners have opted to become entrepreneurs.  I saw residences with artisans working at doorstep workshops to carve bamboo and horn into jewellery and ornaments.  Elsewhere, several home shops stocked locally processed green tea.  Grown on the fertile mountain slopes, Maofeng tea has been an important cottage industry for generations. 

Meanwhile, other owners were carving slabs of slate which would be used later by artists to hold ink for writing, calligraphy or delicate ink paintings.  Additional shopkeepers sold guidebooks and postcards or snacks and cold drinks to the continuous throng of hungry and thirsty visitors. 

World Heritage Listed, Hongcun has been widely praised over the centuries as “a village in Chinese paintings”.  This continues in ‘oils’ because on fair weather days a long row of artists take up prime positions under trees lining the bank of the bow-shaped South Lake.  With brushes in hand I watched them create realistic likenesses of the quaint stone bridge, an idyllic lake and the historic houses of Hongcun.  As I happily discovered, these lures are only a small part of a truly special place that has been officially gazetted as “One of the Ten Most Charming Towns in China”.

 

Anhui Travel Notebook

Flights: Air China has a daily Airbus A330 service between Sydney and Shanghai (four are nonstop) and four nonstop flights a week between Melbourne and Shanghai.  For details contact your travel agent or Air China on (02) 9232 7277 or (03) 8602 5555.  See www.airchina.com.au

Tours:  The treasures of Anhui are included in several holidays offered by Helen Wong’s Tours including a 9-day Beijing/Huangshan/Shanghai package.  For details/bookings contact Helen Wong’s Tours, e-mail hwtaus@helenwongstours.com or phone nationwide 1 300 788 328.  See www.helenwongstours.com

Excursion:  Huicheng Town in Shèxièn County, once a grand centre of Hu?zh?u culture, is another village where wealthy merchants lived in tidy residences during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Xuguo Archway, China’s only surviving four-sided decorative archway, is the lion-adorned gateway to this cultural and historical city.  Beyond is Doushan Street’s compact collection of ancient dwelling houses and wells. 

Information: The China National Tourist Office in Sydney, 11th Floor, 234 George Street, Sydney, NSW 2000, tel (02) 9252 9838, e-mail: sydney@cnta.gov.cn will send out a map of China and an Anhui brochure.  See www.cnto.org.au and www.chinahuangshan.gov.cn  

Lonely Planet’s China, a useful guide available in Australia, has a chapter devoted to the many treasures of Anhui.